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タマちゃん騒動冬の章　(小国綾子）

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タマちゃん騒動冬の章

Tama－chan Fever : Winter Chapter

タマちゃん騒動ってなんだったんだろう。一時は１日に５０００人を集めた真夏の大騒ぎから約４カ月。とうとう今年の流行語大賞にもなってしまった。夏が終わり、秋が過ぎ、いつしか冬を迎えても、タマちゃんはコンクリートに３方を塗り固められた都会の川に生きている。人々の関心が遠ざかった今だからこそ、考えてみたい。タマちゃん冬の章―。

I wonder what that Tama－chan fever was all about. About four months have passed since the big fuss in which 5,000 people per day once gathered to watch Tama－chan in the middle of the summer. Finally, the word Tama－chan became the most popular and commonly used terms of the year. As summer was over, autumn passed by, and winter has come, Tama－chan still lives in urban river surrounded by concrete on three sides. As now is the time that people’s interest about Tama－chan has lessened, I would like to think about Tama－chan. Tama－chan’s Winter chapter on.

タマちゃんが帷子川に居着いて２カ月半以上が過ぎた。不思議だ。多摩川の時はニュースになって10日後、鶴見川でもわずか６日間で姿を消したのに。多摩川や鶴見川は、川辺に草花の咲く郊外のオアシスだ。かたや、帷子川はコンクリートで塗り固められており、土手さえない。人の目にはあまりに殺風景なこの川を、タマちゃんはなぜか選んだ。泳ぎ疲れた体を休めるために、コンクリート護岸の決まった場所に戻ってくるのだ。

Two and a half months have passed since Tama－chan settled down at the Katabira River. This is strange because Tama-chan disappeared from the Tama River 10 days after Tama－chan was in the news, and from the Tsurumi River 6 days after the news. The Tama River and the Tsurumi River are kinds of suburban oasis filled with flowers or grasses around the riversides. On the contrary, the Katabira River is covered with concrete, and there are even no banks. Somehow Tama－chan chose this river that is thought to be uninteresting to human eyes. Tama－chan always returns to his fixed place at the concrete embankment in order to rest his body tired out by swimming.

JR横浜駅から相鉄線で２駅目。西横浜駅の改札を出ると、そこはもう帷子川だ。黄色い落ち葉に交じって、ペットボトルや空き缶が流れていく。川下に10分ほど歩くと、約20人の集団が見えてくる。タマちゃんの「追っかけ」である。

The place is near second stop from JR Yokohama station on Sotetsu Line. After going straight out from the ticket gate at the Nishiyokohama station, there flows the Katabira River in front. Empty plastic bottles and empty cans mixing with yellow fallen leaves are flowing over the surface of the river. By walking down the river about 10 minutes, we can see a group of about 20 people. They are big fans of Tama－chan.

日本中の人々がタマちゃんに飽きて、次の「癒やしキャラ」であるノーベル賞サラリーマン、田中耕一さんに夢中になっていた時も、彼らはタマちゃん一筋だった。「毎朝5時半に家を出て電車で30分かけて通っています。タマちゃんは早朝に現れるから」とは横浜市に住む内村雅則さん(68)。動物写真が趣味だ。

They only think about Tama－chan even when most of the Japanese people got tired of Tama－chan and were fascinated with Tanaka－san, a salaried－worker who won Nobel prize and who is thought to be the next very popular tender－hearted character. Sixty-eight-year old Uchimura Masanori who lives in Yokohama city said, “I usually leave home at 5:30 every morning and come here by taking 30－minutes train ride, because Tama－chan appears in the early morning.” His hobby is taking animal photos.

「都会のど真ん中で一生懸命に生きようとする姿が感動的なんだよね。地図で確かめたら、タマちゃんって５０００～８０００㌔も泳いできたんだ」。別の男性(72)が地図を広げると、たちまち人だかりができた。

Another man, 72, said, “The Tama－chan’s endeavor trying to live with all his energy at the center of urban city moves me deeply. I checked on a map and found that Tama－chan has swum between 5,000 km to 8,000 km to come.” When he opened the map, people gathered around him.

ここの面々の多くがカメラ愛好家だ。そこに動物好きの主婦やビデオ好きが集まって、いつの間にやら「タマちゃんコミュニティー」ができ上がった。最近は「タマちゃんを見守る会」まで発足し、6日から横浜市のホテル「シャトレーイン横浜」のロビーで写真展まで開く勢いなのだ。

Most of the people here are amateur cameramen. And naturally a “Tama－chan community” was formed by housewives who love animals and people who love taking video. Recently “Keep A Watch on Tama－chan Association” was set up, and they are even holding a photograph exhibition in the lobby of the Chatele－Inn Yokohama Hotel in Yokohama city from December 6.

「今日は出ますかねえ」。つぶやく私に、みなは「無理だよ」と言う。何でも法則があって「最近は1週間に1度程度しか出ない」「早朝出なければ、午後から出ることはまずない」という。でも「今日は出ない」と確信するなら、なぜ、みなここに集まっているのだろう？これは最大のナゾなのだった。

When I murmured as to whether Tama－chan appears today, everybody said, “It’s impossible”. Recently there is a rule that Tama－chan comes up once a week to a certain extent, and if Tama-chan does not show up in the early morning, it is rare that Tama－chan appears in the afternoon. However if they are certain that Tama－chan does not come up today, why do they still gather here? This was the biggest question for me.

「タマちゃんコミュニティー」は実に仲がいい。タマちゃんが現れたら、仲間に電話する手はずになっている。「自然発生的に連絡網ができちゃったんです」と町田市の男性(34)。毎日、誰かが菓子や果物を持参し、配って回る。この日の人気のお菓子は「タマちゃんクッキー」だった。

The people of the Tama－chan community are very friendly. If Tama－chan comes up, they have a kind of arrangement to call the other members. According to a 34 year－old man living in Machida city, the telephone network was formed spontaneously. Every day someone comes with sweets or fruits and distributes them to others. Today’s most popular snack was Tama－chan cookies.

会社を退職し、第二の人生を送る者から、現役の勤め人や主婦まで。「タマちゃん」という共通項がなければ、縁もゆかりもない人たちが今、タマちゃんを案じ、互いの自然観を語り、写真を見せ合っている。「みんなと一緒だとあっという間に時間が過ぎる」と内村さん。タマちゃんが現れなくても、彼らがここに通う理由が垣間見えた気がした。

There are various kind of people to from retired workers who started in the second life, active businessmen, or housewives in the community. These people are complete strangers to each other if they do not have common interests about Tama－chan, but they are worried about Tama－chan, talk about their views on nature, and show each other pictures. Mr. Uchimura says, “The time passes so fast with those members.” This gave me a hint as to why they come here even though Tama－chan may not show.

タマちゃん騒動は動物学者らの間でも関心が高い。動物行動学と科学社会論が専門の堂前雅史和光大専任講師は「アザラシが日本に迷い込んだ例は過去30年間に30例以上ある。しかし、タマちゃんだけが騒がれ、まだ弱ってもいないのに保護論議が盛り上がった」と指摘する。事実、昨夏には愛知県・三河港にアゴヒゲアザラシがすみ着いたが、名前も付かなければ、保護論議もおこらなかったという。

The Tama－chan fever has large interests among zoologists. Doumae Masasi, whose expertise is both ethnology and science sociology, a full－time lecturer at Wako University, pointed out that there were over 30 examples of bearded seals wandering into Japan in the past 30 years. However, only Tama－chan received a lot of publicity, and there was an argument protecting him even though Tama－chan was not weakened. In fact, last summer a bearded seal settled in the Mikawa Port in Aichi Prefecture, but it was not named nor were there any protection argument.

「タマちゃんの場合は首都圏の川だったので全国ニュースになりやすかったのだろう。また『都会の川にアザラシ』と聞くだけで反射的に『かわいそう』と思うのは、現代人の自然観の表れではないか。自分たちの暮らす都市が手付かずの自然環境ともつながっている、という事実を忘れているのだろう」というのが堂前氏の分析だ。

According to Domae’s analysis, in the case of Tama－chan, Tama－chan was likely to grab the headline news throughout Japan because Tama－chan appeared in the urban river. In addition, this shows the views about nature of modern people who that feel sorry as soon as they hear that the bearded seal appeared in the urban river. People tend to forget the fact that the urban city in which we live is connected to pristine natural environment.

保護論議は落ち着いたが、今も「毛が汚くなった」と心配するファンは少なくない。鴨川シーワールドの荒井一利海獣展示課長は「毛の抜け変わる春には灰色の毛も、この時期には茶色っぽく、汚れた感じになるのは普通の変化だ。弱れば保護も必要だが、自由に泳げるタマちゃんは自分で選んで帷子川にいる」と説明する。「独りぼっちはかわいそう。仲間のもとに戻して」という声にも、「アゴヒゲアザラシは繁殖期以外、単独で暮らすのが普通」(荒井課長)という。

Although the protection argument has calmed down, quite a lot of fans are worried that Tama－chan’s coat is getting dirty. Arai Kazutoshi, Chief of Sea Creature Exhibition at the Kamogawa Sea World, explained that this change from gray hair in spring in molt to become brown and dirty hair in this season is normal. Tama－chan needs to be protected if Tama－chan were to get weak. However Tama－chan can swim freely and he chose the Katabira River by himself. Mr. Arai also answered one of the worriry voices that it’s a pity because Tama－chan lives alone, so please get Tama－chan back to his company, “It is normal that bearded seals live alone expect for the breeding period.”

さらに今回の騒動に欠けていた視点に、野生アザラシの危険性がある。ニュージーランドの保護局のホームページには、陸に上がった野生のアザラシについて注意を呼びかけている。いわく、アザラシのかみ付く力は犬の3倍で、人にも動物にも感染する病気を持つケースが多く、アザラシの咳からも病気は感染する。つまり、タマちゃんに近づくのは「かわいそう」以前に、人間にとって危険なのだ。

A viewpoint lacking on this fever is the dangerous aspects of wild bearded seals. On the homepage of the Department of Conservation in New Zealand, there is a warning on wild bearded seals coming to the ground, saying that the bearded seal’s biting force is three times stronger than dogs. There are a lot of cases that they harbor diseases that can be transmitted to both humans and animals, and these diseases are transmitted from bearded seal’s cough. In other words, to approach Tama－chan is more dangerous for humans than just feeling sorry for him.

堂前氏は「この視点が欠落していたのは、人々もメディアもタマちゃんを『かわいくてかわいそうそうな存在』にとどめたかったからではないか」という。

Mr. Domae said, “Why this viewpoint was lacking is due to both media and people wanting to keep Tama－chan as an object of lovableness and pity.”

そうかもしれない。

Maybe that’s right!

８月下旬、鶴見川で観客たちのこんな言葉を聞いた。「タマちゃんは、人間に川をきれいにしなさいって神様が遣わしてくれたのかも」「タマちゃんがいるだけで川が浄化されていきそうだね」。都会の人間にとって、タマちゃんは単なる野生動物ではなく、「希望」とか「祈り」とか、そんな存在だったのかもしれない。

As late as this August, I heard the words from spectators that God seems to have be sent Tama-chan here as a sign that people should keep the river clean. It seems that river is purified by Tama－chan’s presence. For the people living in urban city, Tama－chan was not only a wild animal but also a presence of hope or prayer.

タマちゃん騒動が９月下旬、急にしぼんだ理由は何か。理由はいくつもあるだろう。飽きられた。出没頻度が減った。それに帷子川の環境も大きい。鶴見川や多摩川では、見物後にお弁当を食べたりデートする人が多かった。しかし、帷子川には散策できる土手さえない。

What is the reason why Tama－chan fever has died down in late September? I suppose that there are some reasons, such as people become bored with Tama－chan, his media coverage declined, and also another large factor is the environment Katabira River. Around the Tama River or the Tsurumi River, there were a lot of people eating lunch or dating after watching Tama－chan. However, there is no river bank to walk around the Katabira River.

また、９月下旬から北朝鮮による拉致事件が注目され、世の中からのんびりしたムードが消えた。10月10日にはノーベル賞サラリーマンという「癒やしキャラ」の強敵も現れた。

In addition, the abduction issue by North Korea became the center piece of public attention from the end of November, and the laid－back mood has disappeared from our daily lives. A salaried－worker winner Nobel prize who surface on October 10 has become a powerful competitor to vie as comfort－giving character appeared in October 10.

そして今、帷子川は静かである。今の面々は「ターマちゃーん！」などと叫ばない。護岸を走ったりしない。対岸からしか観察しない。夜や早朝、街灯がついている時は護岸に乗らない、という自主ルールさえある。人影が街灯の明かりをさえぎり、水面に届く光が揺れるからだ。

And now the Katabira River is quiet. The regulars here never shout Tama－chan !’ or run on the concrete embankment. They only observe Tama－chan from the opposite bank. There is a self－imposed rule “Do not get on the concrete embankment protection when the streetlamp is on early morning or at night”. The reason is that the human figures would bloke the streetlight, causing the light to wave on the river water.

タマちゃんが多摩川や鶴見川ではなく、帷子川を選んだのは、このあたりが原因なのだろう。人の背ほどもある高いコンクリート護岸は、人間の目には無粋に映るが、実は自動車のライトや人影から川を守っている。タマちゃんはやっと、「静かな川」を見つけたのだ。

This is the reason why Tama－chan chose the Katabira River, not the Tama River nor the Tsurumi River. From people’s point of view, the concrete embankment as high as human height is thought to be cold looking. As a matter of fact, this concrete embankment protects the river from car light or human figures. At last Tama－chan found a quiet river.

帰り道、橋から帷子川を望んだ。川の向こうに、横浜の繁華街が見えた。2002年夏の騒動は、日本にいったい何を残したのか。それが、商標権を持たないタマちゃんの関連グッズだけなら、あまりに悲しい。

On the way back, I saw the Katabira River from the bridge. I could see the busy streets of Yokohama beyond the river. What did this 2002 summer fuss leave to us in Japan? It’s a pity if it is only Tama－chan－related goods without trademark rights that prospered.

段ボールが川面を流れていく。この川の先にあるはずの、見たこともない北極海を思った。

As corrugate cardboards are flowing on the surface of the river, I thought about the Arctic Ocean that lies for beyond, which I’ve never seen.

　単語リスト

流行語大賞　 most popular and commonly used terms

コンクリート護岸 concrete embankment

「タマちゃんを見守る会」“Keep A Watch on Tama－chan Association”

Last　Update

2003年　2月

発表番号 2

大正時代を訪ねてみた　皿木喜久

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大正の三大洋食

東京・浅草オペラが人気を呼ぶのは、大正６（１９１７）年１０月、日本館という常設劇場が開館、東京歌劇座の旗揚げ公演が行なわれたときからだった。ロシアで１０月革命が起き、初の社会主義政権が生まれたころである。

Asakusa Operetta had been popular since October 1917 (Taisho Era 6) when Nippon Theater opened and Tokyo Operetta made its debut performance. It was the time that the October revolution occurred in Russia.

出し物の中でも特にうけたのが『カフェーの夜』というオペレッタであり、その劇中で歌われた『コロッケの唄』もたちまち大ヒットする。

The operetta “The Night at a Café” that became most popular, and “The Song of a Croquette” sung within this play became a great-hit.

今日もコロッケ明日もコロッケ…と庶民生活を歌った「コロッケの唄」は益田太郎冠者（本名・太郎）の作詞作曲だった。益田は三井物産の社長などをつとめた三井財閥総師、益田孝の長男だが、この歌にはモデルがあった。

Today, tomorrow croquette – “Song of a Croquette” sang about the people’s life lyrics was by Tarokaja Masuda (his real name is Taro). He was the eldest son of Takashi Masuda, who was the president of Mitsui & Co., and also the Chairman of the Board of Mitsui-zaibatsu.

益田の知り合いに、美術学校を出て印刷屋になった青年がいた。この青年が結婚して間もなく遊びにきた。益田が「結婚してどうだい」と聞くと、「もう、出てくるおかずが毎日コロッケで…」と答えたのがきっかけだという（社会思想社『日本流行歌史上』）。

This song has a model. There was a young man who was an acquaintance of Masuda who became a printer after he graduated from the art school. This young man got married and came to see Masuda, who asked him how his new life was getting on. The man said that his wife serves “croquette as a dish to go with rice every day”. They say, this was the hint for this song. (Shakaishiso-Sha “Japanese Popular Song History – 1st volume”)

明治維新とともに、肉料理を中心とした多くの西洋料理が伝えられたが、長年肉食の習慣がなかった日本人にはなかなかなじめなかった。そこで、すき焼きなど、日本人好みに工夫をこらした「和製」西洋料理が登場した。

Although many types of Western food were introduced in the Meiji era, they did not easily become familiar with Japanese. Some Japanese were not used to eating meat for a long time. Then, the Japanized Western food which were elaborated to Japanese liking, such as sukiyaki, appeared.

コロッケもそのひとつで西洋料理のクロケットの中身を日本人好みに変えたものだ。明治初期にはもう登場していたが、一般の家庭でも食べられるようになったのは、大正に入ってからで、ライスカレ、トンカツ、とともに「大正の三大洋食」といわれるほどだった。「今日もコロッケ…」は、その頃の歌であった。

Croquette was one of them. The ingredients of the croquette of Western food was changed when it become Japanese. Although it had already appeared in early Meiji era, after Taisho era, it came to be eaten also at a home, and it was like [which were called “Three big Western food of Taisho” with curry-rice, Tonkatsu]. "croquette again today--" was a song at the time.

もっともトンカツは豚肉を使ったカツレツという意味で、この名前が定着するのは昭和に入ってから。大正のころはまだカツレツだった。

Tonkatsu means a cutlet using pork and this name become established, after Showa era. It was still called a cutlet at the Taisho era.

また、そのカツレツをご飯の上に乗せ汁をかけた「カツ丼」は、大正１０（１９２１）年２月早大高等学院の中西敬二郎という学生が、早稲田にあったカフェハウスに提案してはやらせたといわれている。

Moreover, the "Katsudon", which is a dish made by putting a cutlet on boiled rice and sauce was poured on top is said to have been made by Keiichiro Nakanishi, who was a student at Wasedadaigaku Kotogakuin, who proposed to make it at a cafe house in Waseda, in February of 1921 (10th year of Taisho).

大正１１年（１９２２）年、在東京の歩兵連隊の兵士達の嗜好調査を行なったところ、フライ、カツレツ、コロッケの順番だった（西東秋男『日本食生活史年表』）。

According to a questionnaire survey conducted on an infantry requirement in Tokyo as to their favorite food in 1922 (11th year of Taisho). The ranking was flied food, cutlet, and croquette (Akio Saito "History Chronology of Japanese Eating Habits").

「三大洋食」と比べるとカレーとフライが入れ替わっているが、すでにこのころから洋食が和食よりも好まれていることがわかる。

Although curry and flied food were changed compared with “Big Three Western Foods”, it turns out that European food is already more liked than Japanese-style food from around this time.

そのカレーは大正の中ごろからよく食べられるようになった。特に大正１２（１９２３）年ごろからは、家庭でも作ることができるカレー粉が販売されるようになり、一般化してくる。

Curry rice become a very popular type of food since about middle of Taisho. It started to be common food after curry powder that can be used in ordinary home was marketed from about 1923 (12th year of Taisho period).

さらに関東大震災後、東京の神田須田町に登場した有名なサラリーマン向け大衆食堂「須田町食堂」では、野菜サラダやカツレツの５銭とともに、ライスカレーが８銭で食べることができた。豚肉などの安い食材を使い、完全に大衆食となっていたのである。

Moreover, after the Great Kanto Earthquake, a very famous popular restaurant for salaried workers called “Sudacho Shokudo” was opened. There, it was possible to eat curried rice for only 8 sen* with vegetable salad and cutlet was sold for 5 sen*. Cheap ingredients such as pork was used, so curried rice has become popular food. *unit of money used in that period

もっともこのころ、イギリスの圧力から日本に逃れてきて、新宿中村屋の相馬愛蔵の娘婿になっていたインド独立運動の闘士、ラス・ビハリ・ボースはこの日本式のカレーが気に入らなかった。

However, to Ras Bihari Bose, who came to Japan freeing British oppression and who was a fighter of Indian Independent movement and become a son in law of Aizo Some of Shinjuku Nakamura-ya, Japanized curry did not fit his taste.

ボースは「印度貴族の食するカリーライスは決してあんなものではない。肉は最上級の鶏肉を用いるのであるし、最上のバターと十種類の香料を加え、米もまた優良品を選んで凡て充分の選択の調えられる最上の美味である」と訴えた。（相馬愛蔵『一商人として』）。

BOSE said "the curry which Indian nobles eat is never like this. They are made by using the best butter and ten kinds of spices using best chicken, rice is also chosen of superior quality, and in fact, it is the ultimate delicacy prepared by solution of the best." (Soma Aizo "As One Merchant") .

こうして、それまでパンや菓子を売っていた中村屋に喫茶部が開設され、ボースの純印度式カリーライスが登場、やがて中村屋だけでなく東京の名物となっていくのだ。大正末から昭和初めのころのことである。

In this way, a tearoom was set up at Nakamuraya which used to be just a plan to sell bread and confectionaries.. BOSE's pure Indian style curry made its debut and it becomes the local specialty product of not only Nakamuraya but of Tokyo. It was about the end of Taisho to the beginning of Showa era.

こうして、洋食は大正の食卓の主役になりつつあったが、主食の方がなかなかパンというわけにはいかなかった。

In this way, although Western food was becoming the main stream of the dishes in the Taisho era, the staple food was not easily at the table by bread.

明治のころからパン食は始まっており、和洋折衷ともいえるアンパンの発明もあったが、まだどちらかといえば嗜好品のたぐいだった。

Although bread was eaten at the time of Meiji era and there was also AMPAN which was a kind of semi-Western food, it was only something of personal taste.

しかし大正７年の米騒動を引き起こした米価高騰への対策として、米騒動直後に登場した原啓内閣は積極的にパンの代用食運動を展開した。

However, as a counter measure to sudden jump in rice price which triggered the rice riot in the year of Taisho era, the HARA KEI Cabinet that came into after the rice riot promoted bread aggressively as substitute for rice.

この年からシベリア出兵にあたって、陸軍もパンによる代用食を実施した。シベリアでは勿論米はとれない。

The Japanese army also took bread when it was in valued in Siberian intervention from this year. Of course in Siberia, rice cannot be harvested.

そこで兵士たちに少しでもパン食になれさせようとしたのである。

Then, the army tried to eat bread as staple food.

しかし、こうした政府や軍の熱心なＰＲにもかかわらず、パン食はそれほど国民の間には広まらなかった。

However although the Japanese government and army was very enthusiastic on promoting bread, bread did not become so wide spread among Japanese citizen.

その後、現在にいたるまで、和食の復権や中華料理の普及などはあったものの、和製洋食にコメのご飯という、日本人の食事の“主流”は大正時代に定着し、今もあまり変わっていないところが興味深い。（皿木喜久）

It is quite interesting that “the main stream” of the Japanese diet that is a combination of Japanized western food with rice has been established during the Taisho Era and has not changed very much, although there were such moves like reinstalement of Japanese food and Chinese dishes becoming quite popular. (Saraki Yoshihisa)
　

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Last　Update

2003年　2月

発表番号　3

吟醸酒の父

プレゼンター

酒匂真由美

「吟醸酒の父」人生に心酔
Fascination with Life of “the Father of Ginjyoshu”

明治三十年（１８９７年）二月、猛烈な寒波が三津（現広島県安芸津町）を襲った。寒波は十日間も続き寒さに不慣れな瀬戸内の人々は震え上がった。が、それが吟醸酒誕生の瞬間であった。

In February of 1897, Mitsu (currently Akitsu-cho, Hiroshima Prefecture) was hit by a fierce cold snap. This cold wave lasted for 10 days and made people in the Setouchi Inland Sea region, who were unaccustomed to this kind of cold, shiver. This was the moment of birth of “Ginjyoshu”.

私は日本酒の吟醸造りを開発した広島の酒造家、三浦仙三郎（１８４７-１９０８年）を十数年前に知り、人となりに魅力を感じて足跡を追いかけてきた。その生涯は「百試千改」。まさに試行錯誤の連続だった。

Ten years ago I came to know about Senzaburo Miura (1847-1908), who was a brewery owner in Hiroshima and developed the ginjyo-brewing process. As I was fascinated by him, I have been tracing his footsteps. His life was “100 experiments and 1,000 improvements.” That is, his life was indeed a process of trial and error.

仙三郎はいったい、何を目的に吟醸造りを開発したのか。今、広島市郷土資料館で開いている「広島の地酒」展（十二月一日まで）への協力を求められた私は、改めてそれを探るとともに仙三郎の酒を復元し、「吟醸」のルーツを探索してみようと思い立った。

For what reason did he develop the ginjyo-brewing process? I was asked to cooperate with the “Hiroshima Microbrew Exhibition” held in the local documentation center in Hiroshima city through December 1. And so, I thought that I would restore Senzaburo’s sake along with reviewing his purpose and exploring the roots of “Ginjyo”.

仙三郎は雑貨問屋の長男に生まれた。十五歳の時に父が倒れ、事業を引き継いだ。母マチの助けを借り、商売を広げた仙三郎が酒造業に手を染めたのは明治九年。跡継ぎがなく廃業を余儀なくされた酒蔵を杜氏（とうじ）ごと引き受けた。

Senzaburo was born as the first son of a grocery wholesaler. When he was fifteen years old, he took over his father’s business because his father fell sick. With help from his mother Machi, he expanded his business and started a sake brewing company in 1876. He took over a sake brewery, which was about to go out of business without successors, along with the head sake brewer.

当時は、製造の途中で雑菌が混入し、酒が腐ってしまう「腐造」が珍しくなかった。仙三郎も何度となく悩まされたが、老杜氏は耳を貸さない。ついに明治十六年、仕込みを中止し酒造りを学びに灘に赴いた。

At that time, “Huzou”, which is sake that goes off due to contamination in the process of sake brewing, was nothing rare. While Senzaburo was plagued with the problem over and over again, the aging head brewer didn’t listen. In the end, Senzaburo halted the brewing and went to Nada to study the sake-brewing process in 1883.

一年間の修行から帰った仙三郎は蔵を新築し、杜氏を交代させるなどの様々な手を打った。蔵のいろいろな場所に寒暖計と記録用紙をぶら下げ、誰もがデータを記録できるようにした。腐造はなくなったが、灘のような上質の酒は得られない。

After Senzaburo finished the one-year training, he took various measures such as building a new brewery and changing the head sake brewer. He hanged thermometers and papers for recording data throughout the brewery so that anyone could record the data. Although “Huzou” did not happen after such measures, he could not make the high-quality sake like that of Nada.

原因が水にあることを突き止めたのはしばらく後だった。

It took him a while to find out that the problem resulted from water.

酒造のプロセスはまず麹（こうじ）がコメのでんぷんを糖に変え、次に酵母が糖をアルコールに変える。酵母が育つには栄養分が必要で、供給源は水とコメである。

In the sake-brewing process, firstly Koji mold (rice cultivated with a mold known technically as aspergillus oryzae) converts the starch of steamed rice into sugar, and secondly enzymes convert the sugar into alcohol. In order to grow the enzyme needs nutrition that comes from water and rice.

水には硬水と軟水がある。硬水はミネラルなどの栄養分に富む。一方、コメにも「硬きコメ」と「軟（やわ）きコメ」がある。軟きコメは精米の度を上げた栄養分の少ないコメである。

There are two kinds of water: hard water and soft water. Hard water is rich in nutrition, such as minerals. Meanwhile, there is also both hard rice and soft rice. Soft rice is less nutritious rice with increase degree of rice polishing.

知られる通り灘の宮水は硬水である。そして精米度の高いコメを使う。つまり灘酒は「硬き水に軟きコメ」の組み合わせで作る酒であった。広島は軟水なのに中途半端にそれをまね、精白度の高いコメを使うようになったことが腐造を招いた。

It is well known that “Nada no Miyasui”, which is underground water that is used for sake brewing in Nada region, is very hard water, and highly-polished rice is used for the sake brewing there. That is to say, Nada sake is made by a combination of hard water and soft rice. By comparison to Nada, Hiroshima has softer water. However because Senzaburo copied Nada’s sake-making process in a haphazard way and started using highly-polished rice, triggered “Huzou”.

仙三郎は、仕込みの配合を様々に変え、同時並行で醸造を繰り返す。来る日も来る日も実験を重ねた。やがて軟水には低温仕込みが適していることが分かった。そしてついに、蒸し米をセ氏十二度まで冷やして仕込む実験に挑んだ。その最中を、寒波が襲ったのである。

Senzaburo changed the mixing proportion of rice and water in various ways and repeated the fermentation at the same time. Day after day, he repeated the experiments. Later on, he found out that soft water matched up well with blending rice at low temperature. At last, he tried an experiment in which steamed rice was cooled down to 12℃ and then blended. In the middle of this experiment, the cold snap hit Hiroshima.

いわゆる「吟香」という吟醸酒特有の芳しい香りは、低温で仕込み、ゆっくり発酵させる過程で生まれる。軟水という不利な条件下で、灘に負けない酒を目指した努力の結果、アクシデントも手伝って、はからずも吟醸造りが誕生した。しかも精米度は、今よりはるかに低かった。

So-called “Ginka”, ginjyoshu’s special spicy smell, is born in the process of blending at low temperature and fermenting at slow speed. As a result of his efforts, such as trying to create sake better than Nada’s under adverse circumstance like soft water, the ginjyo-brewing process was born by accident. And what’s more is that the degree of rice milling was much lower than at present.

残念ながら、その瞬間の記録はない。ただ「淡白」「醇美」と記した。それが、いかにも仙三郎らしい。しかも仙三郎は成果を独占せず、広く公開した。

Unfortunately, there is no record when the ginjyo was born. Senzaburo simply recorded it as light and crisp, and rich flavored. That is the kind of person Senzaburo was. In addition, he disclosed the results across the board without monopoly.

主婦のかたわらノンフィクションの取材をしていた私が仙三郎の取材を始めて五年。昨春は伝記も出版した。国税庁醸造試験所（現酒類総合研究所）の図書館で明治時代の『醸造試験所報告』『醸造協会雑誌』など仙三郎に関する資料を見つけた時の記憶は今も鮮明だ。仙三郎の魂ともいうべき『改醸法実践緑』の原本を国会図書館で見た時の感動も忘れられない。

Five years have passed since I started gathering information about him. I was a housewife at that time and collected the data for nonfiction work. I published a biography on Senzaburo last spring. I have still clear memories when I discovered the documents on Senzaburo published in the Meiji Era, such as Fermentation Laboratory Reports or Journal of Fermentation Association, at the library in the National Research Organization of Technology for Alcoholic Beverages under control of the National Tax Administration (currently National Research Institute of Brewing, NRIB). In addition, I cannot forget my great excitement when I found the original copy of Revised Fermentation Practice Records written by Senzaburo with his heart and soul at the National Diet Library.

職員から死角になっているのを幸いに、私は本に鼻を近づけた。かすかに魚のにおいたした。百年の歳月を超えて、仙三郎の本質を何としても知りたいと思ったからだ。

I brought my nose to the book when luckily I found I was in a hidden corner from the librarian. It faintly smelled of fish. Why I did such a thing is that I really wanted to know the essence of Senzaburo a hundred years after.

探し当てた資料は、日本酒の知識がない私には歯が立たない。伝を頼って教えを請うた諸先生はとんちんかんな素人の質問に嫌な顔一つせず丁寧に答えて下さった。ことに醸造学会会長の秋山裕一先生の指導がなければ吟醸造りの誕生の経緯は「幻」のままだったろう。

It was too difficult for me to understand the documents found in the libraries because I had little knowledge about Japanese sake. Therefore, I asked some acquaintances to find experts in sake to teach me. Even though I as a layperson asked them off-the-point questions, they replied to me very politely without showing the slightest annoyance. Especially, without help from Mr. Yuichi Akiyama, the president of the Brewing Society of Japan, I could not have found out about the details of how ginjyo-brewing process was born, and it would have remained a mystery.

仙三郎の酒の復元も秋山先生の発案である。実際の醸造は、広島市の小泉本店が仙三郎の残したレシピを基に当時の酵母で醸造した。「あの時代によくこれだけの酒をつくった」と小泉隆司社長も驚くほどだ。

The fact is that the restoration of Senzaburo’s sake was an idea by Mr. Akiyama. Koizumi Honten in Hiroshima city brewed it with the original enzyme based on the original recipe left by Senzaburo. The President of this company Takashi Koizumi was amazed and said, “It is just amazing that such fine sake was brewed in those days.”

吟醸という言葉も和製と分かった。江戸時代後半に「吟造」が使われていたようで、謹製と同義だったらしい。

I also found out that the word ginjyo was a Japanese-made Chinese character. In the late Edo period, the word “ginzo” was used in the same way as “kinsei” with the meaning of “carefully made stuff”.

展覧会では土・日曜日だけだが、試飲会を開いている。果たして仙三郎だったらどんな評価を下すだろうか。少し怖い。

At the festival, sake tasing is open every Saturdays and Sundays. I’m a little afraid as to how Senzaburo would evaluate the restored sake if he were here.

（日本経済新聞　平成14年11月4日　月曜日　池田　明子）

単語リスト

吟醸造り　ginjyo-brewing process

酒造家（蔵元）　brewery owner

酒蔵　sake brewery

杜氏（とうじ）　head sake brewer

仕込み　brewing, blending

酒造り　sake brewing

麹（こうじ）　koji mold (technically as aspergillus oryzae)

酵母　enzyme

発酵させる　ferment

精米　rice milling, rice polishing

復元　restoration

試飲会　sake tasting

Last　Update

2003年　2月

発表番号　4

「煙都」から再び「水都」へ

プレゼンター

鶴田知佳子先生／尾崎真理子
一条貴美／酒匂真由美

「煙都」から再び「水都」へ
Osaka, the Aquapolis

深まり行く秋。この夏、気ままで愛らしい姿をたっぷり見せてくれたアザラシのタマちゃんは、もうふる里の海へ帰っているのだろうか。

それにしても老若男女がタマちゃんにあれほど魅了されたのは、多分そこが都会の川という場所だったからではないか。川面にふと心の安らぐ人は多い。タマちゃんのように上げ場にどてんと寝そべり、時を過ごすなんて私もやってみたい。

The days in autumn go by. That freely roaming and cute seal, Tama-chan, who has charmed us all summer, has he already gone back to his home in the sea? I think one of the reasons that everyone, young and old, man and woman became so fascinated by Tama-chan, was that Tama-chan appeared in an urban river. There are many who feel that their minds are refreshed just by watching the river flow. Even I would like to do what Tama-chan is doing – lie down flat on the river bank and stay there as time goes by.

裏返せば、タマちゃんは人間と川の結びつきの大切さを、あらためて気づかせてくれたのだ。

In other words, Tama-chan has let us remember once again, the importance of the link between humans and the river.

風来坊のタマちゃんもさすがに大阪の淀川までは来なかった。しかし大阪こそ川の町だと思う。

Even though the “free willy Tama-chan” did not come as far as Yodo River in Osaka, he reminded me that Osaka is a city of rivers.

東京から大阪へ赴任する際の送別の辞で一番心に残ったのは、駐日欧州委員会代表部のフランス人、井上ドミニックさんの「大阪はパリみたい」という表現だった。

One of the most impressive farewell remarks that I received when I left Tokyo to come to Osaka, was the remark made by a French lady, Dominique Inoue, who works for the European Commission Representative Office in Tokyo. She expressed her thoughts that Osaka is like Paris.

「パリですって？」と思わず聞き返す私に、彼女は大きくうなずいた。

「ええ、パリです。初めて大阪を訪れた時、ホテルの部屋から川が見えました。遊覧船があって、あとエッフェル塔をつければパリだなと思ったら、ホッとしてホームシックが少し癒されました。東京ではなかったことでしたね」

“Paris?” I asked, and she nodded enthusiastically. “Yes, Paris. When I went to Osaka for the first time, I saw the river from my hotel room. There I saw tourist boat, and if there had been an Eiffel Tower, I thought, it would be Paris. My homesickness was eased a little bit by this thought. I couldn’t experience this kind of a thing in Tokyo.”

私はいま不明を恥じている。そう、物の本によれば、大阪を訪れたヨーロッパの人々はすでに江戸時代に大阪を「日本のパリ」とか「東洋のベニス」と語っている。水の都・大阪である。

Then, I felt a little ashamed. Why didn’t I think of that. Yes, according to literature, the Europeans who visited Osaka during the Edo Period already called Osaka the “Paris of Japan”, or “Venice of the Orient”. Yes, Osaka is the aquapolis.

しかしその後の大阪がパリやベニスから、遠ざかっていったのもまた確かである。大阪大学の宮本又郎教授（経済学）によれば、そもそも大阪はベニスにならなかった。

However, it is also a fact that Osaka moved further and further away from being like Paris in its later days. According to Osaka University Professor of Economics, Professor Matarou Miyamoto, Osaka couldn’t have become Venice in the first place.

同教授によれば、明治時代、後に日本勧業銀行総裁となる農商務省の河島醇は、中世に栄えながら時代に取り残された港湾都市に言及、「ベニスの轍を踏むな」と大阪の商業路線から繊維産業を中心とする工業路線への転換を主張した。明治一七年の河島の復命書にその言葉が記されている。

According to Professor Miyamoto, Jun Kawashima, an Agriculture and Commerce Ministry official at that time and who was later to become the President of Japan Kangyo Bank, insisted that Osaka should change its policy orientation from commerce to manufacturing, especially centered on textile industries. He insisted that Osaka should not repeat the failure of Venice, a port city prosperous in the Middle Ages but left behind in the times to follow. The report by Kawashima written in 1884 illustrates that point.

工業化路線は成功する。「水の都」から「煙の都」へ、大阪は「東洋のマンチェスター」となったのだった。煙突と煙こそ発展の象徴と、日本人が信じて疑わなかった時代でもあった。

The shift to a manufacturing orientation proved a huge success. From Water City to Smoke City, Osaka became the “Manchester of the Orient”. Those were the times that all Japanese believed, and never questioned that chimneys and smoke were indeed symbols of development.

初めての町へ来ると、いつも足は川へと向く。ニューヨーク支局時代は国連本部ビルからイースト・リバーを眺めて飽きなかった。秋天の休日、淀屋橋港から水上バスに乗った。

When I got to a city for the first time, I always go to the river first. When I was working at the New York Bureau of the Sankei Newspaper, I always looked at the East River from the UN Headquarters Building, and never was bored by that sight.

土佐掘川から中之島沿いに大川（旧淀川）へ。桜宮橋をくぐり抜け、再び大川を下ると寝屋川に出合う。そして第二寝屋川に入って弁天橋でUターン、再び土佐堀川を淀屋橋港に戻ってくる。

On one sunny autumn day, I decided to take a water bus ride from Yodobashi Port. I started my trip on the Tosabori River, going along Nakanoshima, to the Osaka (the former Yodo River), then under Sakuramiya Bridge, and on down the Okawa, until it joined the Neya River. Then, the boat went into the Second Neya River to make a U-turn at Benten Bridge and came back through the Tosabori River back to Yodoyabashi Port.

約一時間。船が進むにつれて次々姿を現す橋の多さにまず驚いた。ついで橋の低さ。それは大阪の水都としての、長い歴史の証明でもある。

This boat ride took about one hour. I was first of all amazed, by so many bridges appearing one after the other as the boat went down the river. And after that I was amazed, by how low the bridges were. That is also a proof of Osaka’s long history as an aquapolis.

京に通じる橋だから京橋という船内放送の説明に、川が暮らしと商売の中心であった往時がほうふつとする。いまは京橋に並んでかかる高架を、京阪電車が走っている。

On the boat, I heard an announcement that explained why a Bridge was named Kyobashi (Kyoto Bridge). This came from the fact that this is a bridge that would lead to Kyoto. By hearing this announcement, I realized that this river must have been the center of life and commerce in the old days. Nowadays, Keihan trains pass on the tall bridge that run parallel to Kyobashi.

当時のままの低い橋に対応すべく、水上バスの天井が上下する技術と工夫はいかにも日本だ。

The technology and the operation in the old days of making the roof of the water bus go up and down to adjust to the low lying bridges, seemed a uniquely Japanese way of adaptation to me.

水上バスを降りた時、どうしてどうして、まだまだ水の都ではないかと納得する思いと、せっかくの川という資産を大阪はあまり生かしていないのではないかと残念な思いとが交錯した。

When I got off the water bus, I had mixed feelings. On one hand I felt confident that yes, indeed Osaka is still an aquapolis, but on the other hand I felt regretful that Osaka had not quite utilized its asset rivers, to their fullest potential.

川沿いに林立するビルの愛想のなさ。道頓堀川では建物群が川に背を向けている。そして高速道路に覆われた東横堀川。水辺を占めるホームレスの青いテント群だけが、目に焼き付いた。

Numerous buildings were built along the river shore, looking quite dull. Along the Dotonbori River, the buildings are constructed with their backs to the river. And the Toyokobori River was all covered up by the express ways that run over the top. The only impressive thing that came into my eyes was the blue tents grouped along the river, inhabited by the homeless.

いま、時代は水が私たちに近づいている。

Now, it is the water that is approaching closer to us.

八月に南ア・ヨハネスブルクで開かれた「持続可能な開発に関する世界首脳会議（環境開発サミット）」で水問題は主題の一つに躍り出て、日米では水協力イニシアチブが生まれた。

In August, the issue of water became one of the main agenda topics, at the World Summit on Sustainable Development (Environmental Development Summit) held in Johannesburg in South Africa, and a Water Cooperation Initiative was signed between Japan and the United States.

「きれいな水を人々へ」と題した日米パートナーシップは冒頭、次のような問題意識を示す。

The Japan-US Partnership titled ‘Clean Water to People’ indicates the following thoughts on this issue in its opening remarks.

≪今日、世界の三分の一近くの人々が、健康、農業及び経済発展を直接脅かすような慢性的な水不足の中で暮らしている。十億人以上の人々が安全な飲料水へのアクセスを、また二十億人以上が適切な衛生へのアクセスを欠いている。水に関連する疾病により、毎日およそ六千人の子供が命を失っている。2025年までには、世界人口の三分の二近い人々が何らかの形で水に関係する困難を経験するであろう≫

“Today, nearly one third of the people in the world live in chronic water shortage, that can be threatening to health, agriculture and economic development. More than a billion people lack access to safe drinking water, and more than two billion lack access to pertinent hygiene. Everyday, around six thousand children lose their lives due to water related disease. By 2025, nearly two thirds of the world population would experience some kind of difficulty related to water”.

地球規模の水不足と砂漠化、逆にドナウ川流域氾濫に見たような水過剰や海面上昇。そして水をめぐる紛争の激化。世界は水危機を迎え、水が安全保障の時代との見方も有力になりつつある。

We are witnessing global scale water shortages and desertification on one hand, yet on the other hand too much water as we saw in the flooding of the Danube River area, and the rise in sea level. Also, disputes due to water are intensifying. The world is facing a water crisis, and the view that we are now facing an era in which water means security, is becoming predominant.

この日米イニシアチブが、来年三月に大阪、そして京都、滋賀で開催される第三回世界水フォーラムに提示されるのは、実に暗示的と思う。

I think it is quite indicative, that this Japan-US Initiative would be put forth to the Third World Forum on Water, to be held in March of next year in Osaka, Kyoto and Shiga.

大阪府や市が水の都大阪再生のために協議会を発足させたり、水都再生構想に着手したり、民間でも道頓堀川の水泳大会を企画するなど、いま大阪では、水の都復活への試みが始まっている。

In Osaka now, there are attempts being made to restore the aquapolis, such as the Osaka prefectural and municipal government putting together a council for the renaissance of the water city Osaka, or starting a scheme to rebuild the aquapolis. Also in the private sector, there are plans such as holding swimming competitions at the Dotonbori River.

ようやくの感もするが、悪いことではない。けれど行政の取り組みは例によって十年、二十年で遅いし、イベントはしばしば一過性で終わる。

I feel all these attempts are coming rather late, but they are not bad things. However, it is a rather slow process for the government to be involved, with a ten to twenty year timeframe, and the events usually ending up as just one-time events.

やはり肝心なのは、暮らしそのものが川や海、水にもっと近づき、触れ合うことだろう。例えばいま道頓堀川沿いの建物に川と向き合う工夫をこらすだけでも、川は私たちの生活にぐっと身近になるに違いない。

What is really important is that the people be closer to the river, the sea, and the water, so that people can have contact with water in their daily lives. For example, I think that just making the buildings along the Dotonbori River face towards the river, would surely make the river feel a lot closer to our lives.

「煙の都」から「水の都」へ。大阪はもう一度変身できるだろうか。

From the “Smoke Capital” to the “Water Capital” – can Osaka transform itself once again?

（産経新聞　平成14年10月20日　日曜日　千野　境子）

単語リスト

川面　 river flow

上げ場　river bank

風来坊　free willy

水の都　aquapolis

高架　tall bridge

持続可能な開発に関する世界首脳会議　
World Summit on Sustainable Development

環境開発サミット Environmental Development Summit

Last　Update

2003年　2月

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