VOL.84
Japanese Cuisine and Bordeaux:a
Match Made in Heaven
ワインで和食を (2001-11-15
)
| いよいよBeaujolais
Nouveauの解禁日ですが、特にヌーボーでなくてもワインで和食を楽しむには？ パリでレストランを経営するオーナーシェフのヒントをBordeauxのオフィシャルサイトから |
Tateru
Yoshino is the world of cuisine's Foujita. Owner
of the Paris restaurant Stella Maris, he has
worked alongside some of the foremost chefs of
his time.
He is considered Japanese by the French and
French by the Japanese.
Below, a conversation with this devotee of haute
cuisine and Bordeaux wine. |
| ワインで楽しむにはやはり個々の料理によるとしています |
B.I.:
Which Bordeaux wines are best suited to which
dishes? T.Y.:Japanese
cuisine is primarily built around vegetables and
fish, with a small amount of meat. White Bordeaux
wines are favoured above all, especially Pessac-Léognan,
Graves and Entre-deux-mers. But it is difficult
to generalise about the best matches between
wines and dishes. Each example is a special case.
|
| すしにあうワインに触れる前に、すしがすっかりSushiとしてグローバルなフードになっていると発言し、辛口のソービニオン（グラーヴなどの)がいいのでは、といっています。 |
B.I.:
How about sushi? T.Y.:I
am amazed by the world-wide expansion of this
dish, which has become a pillar of "world
food." But one must be very careful when
using this term; not everything qualifies. Sushi
is actually raw fish Ð it must be absolutely
fresh, cut on site and served atop plump,
slightly tangy Japanese rice. Generally speaking,
I would suggest a dry sauvignon that really
tastes like a sauvignon, such as an Entre-Deux-Mers,
or a Graves that is not too woody. An excellent
Pessac-Léognan, beautifully structured,
with fruit - a Carbonnieux blanc, for example,
would also do quite well.
|
| さしみにはもう少し円熟しまるい感じのワイン〜シャトーブリオンなどは？ |
B.I.:
And sashimi? T.Y.:Sashimi
is our most demanding delicacy for there is no
margin for error. Raw fish is served in its
purest form, in all its glory. The prime ashimi
is a piece of thick tuna, cut from the fillet; it
is the most select morsel. With this we can
venture into rounder, more mature wines. Such a
regal dish calls for one of the world's greatest
whites. Why not a Chateau Haut-Brion?
|
| B.I.:
Do you recommend whites to accompany tempura, as
well? T.Y.:Here
you might try a red Bordeaux. For me tempura is
the most delicate of fried food. The blend of
rapeseed and sesame oils makes it amazingly light.
Of course, if we were purists, we would have to
distinguish between vegetable and shrimp
tempuras, but since they are served together,
naturally I suggest a single wine for both. This
Bordeaux should be young and fruity. I think a
Saint-Emilion, for example, or a wine from the
right bank with dominant merlot notes would be
just the thing. But a lovely sharp white Bordeaux
would also do the trick.
|
てんぷらは白よりも赤をすすめています |
| B.I.:
What is your opinion of teppanyaki? T.Y.:We
Japanese consider it pure show business. One day,
about thirty years ago, a Japanese expatriate in
the U.S. started juggling sharp knives over a
large heated grill. This met with immediate
success. But rest assured: teppanyaki has never
worked in Japan. That said, to accompany these
grilled meats, one might try a "vin des Côtes",
in particular a Premières Côtes de
Bordeaux, a Côtes de Blaye or a Côtes
de Bourg.
|
鉄板焼きの歴史のほうが面白い |
| .I.:
What kind of wine do you serve with Kobé
beef? T.Y.:This
beef, from cows that are massaged with beer and
that listen to classical music, is one of the
most gorgeous products in the world. You know, in
Japan, when a friend wants to honour you, he
might give you some entrecôtes of this
precious beef wrapped in tissue paper. With beef
this tender and mellow, the greatest Médoc,
in particular those of Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe,
are right at home. Meat like this demands tannic,
strong wine.
|
おきまりの「神戸ビーフ」は濃厚なメドックを |
| B.I.:
Do sweet wines go especially well with any dishes
in particular? T.Y.:The
Japanese are absolutely passionate about monkfish
liver, especially when it is served warm, freshly
removed from the fish's belly, along the coast.
It is our foie gras and we eat it with a great
deal of reverence in the form of sashimi, or
marinated, or just barely steamed. An excellent
Sauternes would enhance it beautifully, as would
a Loupiac, Barsac or Sainte-Croix-du-Mont. I have
never tried this taste-combination approach on
yokan, our traditional desserts made of red-bean
paste, but it would certainly be worth a try.
|
こんな場合はスィートなワインもトライする価値があるかも、といっています |
個人的な経験ですが、わたしは日本での和食レストランの敷居の高さについていけず(＝ただ私がお金がないだけとサービスに対する考え方の違いが今一つ納得できないということがあります)、Hong
KongやSingaporeなどの東南アジアで和食を覚えました。日本での３分の１ぐらいの値段でenjoyできます。この場合、日本酒が高くつくことともともと日本酒のことがよくわからないこともあり、ワインで和食を楽しむということになります。こうするとワインも食事もreasonableに楽しめるという思わぬ効果があります。
もっともサーブする人は現地の人たちとなるので「いらっしゃいませ」などが“不思議Japanese”となりますが、これはこれでとても楽しいものに思えます。
|
 |
The
ultimate peasant dish! This is the Japanese pot au feu,
made by cooking all the day's vegetables and meat in the
same pot. A delightful, congenial dish like this demands
"vins de plaisir" such as the Bordeaux Supérieurs
= しゃぶしゃぶをこんなふうに表現しています。フランスに長く住んだ人らしく
peasant といってますがあまりおだやかな
word ではありません。かなり親しい仲だけで使ったほうがいいかもしれません。
tangy = ぴりっとした、独特のにおいがある
congenial = similar
Go to
Bordeaux com. / Japanese Cuisine and Bordeaux:
Go to
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Go to
Current Globe Vol.71 / 'Barbarians' threaten French wine ( 2001-08-21
)
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=
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